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Ebay and Radiator and Cross Flow and Review and 2600cfm -wwwebaycom

  1. Cut the pinnacle and bottom tanks of my old champion radiator that was in my 440, 67 barracuda.
    The cores are tiny. I could barely fit some 0.6 MIG wire through.

    This rad was setup with a shroud and twin 1300cfm fans. Withal didnt work.
    I'm planning on ownership a decent core and making a twin laissez passer with some spal fans and some other shroud. Mayhap 2x low profile pullers and 1 large arse pusher on the front.
    Thoughts...

    DSC_0838.JPG

  2. Wow those are tiny ! I'm running an ecp two row one" tube , runs squeamish and cool !
  3. Is that rad the ones listed on ebay?

    Screenshot_20171018-203653.png

  4. MRGTX

    MRGTX Well-Known Member

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    Huh.
    I bought my Champion radiator based on positive reviews and so far, it has been fine though admittedly, my motor isn't asking a lot of the cooling system yet.

    So I'm non certain how the radiator should have looked when cut open...seems normal to me only and then once more, I spend a very pocket-size pct of my time thinking about radiators so perhaps I don't know what I'thou talking most.

    What setup do you have on the 440? How is information technology being driven? Did yous already check the usual t-stat and water pump kickoff? Did you lot flush/rule out obstructions in the cooling organisation?

  5. To analyze,
    This rad was in the automobile before I rebuilt the motor. I had issues with it previously, so it was on my kill list.
    Fresh motor build, About 500hp, tested the new tstat, enough of airflow, timing 12/36, tried a chip more than, no comeback, new rad cap tried a few . Even put a pusher fan on forepart and 2 pullers with a shroud, Yet didnt cool her down at idle.
    Cold to 220 in xv mins at idle with fans on all the time and no hood on the car.... Wtf....
    If I'm driving around, maybe I'd get 25mins of drive time before I freak out and it'southward up around 210.
    Tried a few dissimilar radiator flushes, Pulled information technology out today and cut her open. Out of all those cores I had approx 12 cores partially blocked, Probably from earlier the engine was rebuilt.
  6. Every bit long equally the tubes aren't plugged, more smaller tubes will go rid of more than estrus then fewer larger tubes. This is due to more than area contact. But the tubes can/volition get plugged up easier, if there is trash in the cooling organisation.
  7. Gonna get back to a 3 core.
  8. stroked340

    stroked340 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    My Champion cools just fine..wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyy better then the factory,thats for certain!!
  9. Maybe it's only a big block A trunk thing.
  10. Uncertainty it. I run a three cadre Be-cool radiator in mine, and rarely run the fans. Equally long equally I'm moving the temp never gets above 190.
    In heavy traffic I only run one of the 2 fans. The second fan has been relegated to a support since it's not needed. If your hot then something else is incorrect.

    Could be the rad and could be the water pump. Endeavour a hi-flow pump and a new rad and meet what happens.

    • Thanks! Thanks! x ane
    • I believe and then, i ordered mine directly from them
      • Thanks! Thanks! x 1
      • that Contradicts everything I've heard. Even radiator shops recommend less and bigger tubes !
      • RustyRatRod

        RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Mon. FABO Golden Fellow member

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        Those tubes are too narrow. Period. They are a proficient width, just they are so narrow, they cannot flow plenty water to transfer heat efficiently. I would rather have a ii row with wider tubes.

        I don't disagree that Champion radiators fit the bill for some, but I have seen also many people have problems to attempt one. They are very hit and miss, IMO.

      • 72bluNblu

        72bluNblu FABO Gold Member FABO Gilt Member

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        Radiator isn't the problem at all.

        Two 1300 cfm fans, for a possible max menses of 2,600 cfm, is totally inadequate. That's like maybe 2/3 of the airflow yous need on the low end. The stock mechanical fans are capable of somewhere northward of four,000 cfm. And are they pushers?

        I run a champion 26" three core with an OE Ford Contour dual electrical fan prepare. Those fans are capable of ~3,500 cfm on low speed, and ~5,000 cfm on the high speed. That combination cools my .060" over, 400-ish hp 340 just fine. I employ a digital controller, and the loftier speed has just kicked on a couple times, all when sitting in traffic with ambience temperatures above 105*F.

      • WOW those are some narrow tubes. ran a three row cross flow aluminum in my big block sprint with a mechanical fan and a couple electric pushers but in example.
        never ran over 180. hell the electric fans never came on even.
      • 72bluNblu

        72bluNblu FABO Golden Fellow member FABO Gold Member

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        This doesn't even make any sense. First, it should have run over 180*. So if yous were holding it beneath 180* with the fans you weren't doing yous or your engine any favors. Second, running pushers in forepart of a mechanical fan is a lousy idea. The pushers obstruct airflow through the radiator, which makes the mechanical fan less efficient. It'due south merely silly. If the mechanical fan can't keep upwards in traffic, increase the CFM of the mechanical fan at low speeds. Don't sabotage information technology at higher speeds by jamming crap in front of it.

        If you lot need to add together electric pushers in forepart of a mechanical fan, it's because your mechanical fan or cooling organisation (or both) is undersized. If somehow that works and your car doesn't overheat at speed, it ways your cooling system is fine, only your mechanical fan is inadequate. So at that indicate, you lot should either drop the mechanical fan, because it's just wasting power, or upgrade it and drop the pushers. Running both is just wasting energy.

        • Thanks! Thanks! x 1
        • You lot don't need a double pass radiator. You don't demand 4 cores.

          2 cores of 1 inch each volition cool well over 800 HP if and this is the large IF, the water pump has the power to keep upwards, and yous are turning it the right speed.

          two cores of 1.25 inch would exist fifty-fifty better.

          No reason to ever utilize a 4 core. You lot need FLOW.

          • Thanks! Cheers! 10 1
          • 72bluNblu

            72bluNblu FABO Gold Fellow member FABO Aureate Fellow member

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            Information technology'southward non that simple. As Charrlie_S said earlier, it's near area. The flow charge per unit of water through the radiator is of import too, but the surface area exposed to the incoming air is the driving component. The area and the speed of the air are by far larger parts of the equation, literally.

            You desire the surface area of the tubes to be maximized. To practice that you lot accept to balance the dimensions of the tubes with the number of tubes you can have. Just saying the tubes should be longer merely addresses a unmarried component, and that'due south what is meant when it's said the tubes are ane". The tubes have width and length, and y'all're only addressing length, offset of all. Yous tin have 1" tubes that are every bit narrow as the tiptop pic. The smaller the width, the more water volition be exposed to the surface of the tube, which is good to a point. But as was already mentioned, if the tubes are too narrow information technology will restrict flow and they'll exist prone to plugging up. And so it's a balance, you want the most surface area you can become without restricting the flow too much, both new so afterward when things develop some corrosion. The extra cores don't help if they're plugged.

            Same affair with the number of cores. More rows of tubes=more surface expanse, which is a good matter. But, the problem is that the air passing through the radiator is warmed and slowed every bit it goes through. And then, the more cores you add together, the thicker the radiator gets. Every bit the air goes through it slows and warms more, which makes the boosted rows less effective and you lose efficiency.

            I tend to agree that a 4 core radiator is too much, they end up being too thick and the length of the cores is usually macerated. The surface area is still higher considering of the number of tubes, but the efficiency is lower. And they commonly end up being thick enough that they make fan selection a problem. You want to find a adept residual between the surface expanse of the tubes, the amount they tin can flow, and the size of the fan that you can run. A ton of radiator can be good, simply if it compromises the fan CFM then you lot've gone as well far.

            I really like the Champion iii cadre 26" radiator I run, and it still allows enough room to run a prepare of dual fans that will flow 3,500 and 5,000 cfm on low/high fan speeds.

            • Thanks! Thanks! x ane

            • I didn't consider that a 1 inch tube could exist as narrow as the ones shown in the picture. I thought about it for a flake, and I can say I don't call up I've always seen tubes that narrow in anything, not fifty-fifty an OEM radiator.

              You'd be correct...if the tubes are as narrow in the pictures it really wouldn't matter hob big they are in the other management.

              I going to Assume the only reason to exercise that is to become enough tubes in there and keep the width to a certain size.

              • Thanks! Thank you! x 1
              • 2 row core 1" tubes, and water wetter added to the antifreeze. Dont run electric and engine driven fans. Run one or the other.
                • Thanks! Thank you! x 1
                • 72bluNblu

                  72bluNblu FABO Gilded Member FABO Gold Member

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                  Correct. They're cramming more than total surface area by adding more tubes that are narrower. They can just make the radiator and then wide. The math volition work really well considering of the total surface expanse of all those tubes. Only the radiators efficiency in real life may endure considering of the h2o circulation. If not at kickoff, certainly every bit the radiator ages.

                  Same with the length. Manufacturers will use shorter tubes and run more than cores. They can only make the radiator so thick and still sell them. Merely they become to advertise them as a 4 core- the "well if 3 cores are good 4 must be ameliorate!" kind of thinking sells radiators. Well, no, not if the tubes are really thin and short, you have surface area but lose efficiency.

                  Simply the same is truthful for ad 1" tubes. Is that actually meliorate? Have you done the math on h2o circulation, expanse, efficiency, etc? 2 rows of giant tubes won't necessarily work amend either, the tube length being 1" doesn't hateful anything by itself. Longer tubes don't hateful crap if you don't have enough of them to create plenty total expanse. A 3 cadre with .75" tubes might work amend, but unless yous examination them adjacent for thermal efficiency yous wouldn't know.

                  It's simply advertising, more than cores vs larger tubes. Neither i actually tells you which radiator is best for your car.

                  The last bit I hold with, run electrical or run mechanical. Running both is inefficient, and commonly counterproductive.

                  But like I said in a higher place, but having one" tubes doesn't necessarily hateful anything either. It'southward non that simple, you accept to look at the whole thing.

                • Hmm, all makes sense.
                  I did notice this in my stash of goodies.
                  Looks like mopar part number 46237.
                  Is this oem for my 383, 67 barracuda?
                  Funny it's painted nearly identical to my pigment lawmaking of PP1. There are traces of this color on the floors, however I'd assume the engine would have been Chrysler blue from factory.

                  DSC_0840.JPG

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                Source: https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/champion-radiator-i-cut-her-open.392344/